What must never be overlooked in a home inspection?
Before The Home Inspection
Choose A Home Inspection Company With Top
Credentials -
You have a goal, you want to be well informed, and
you want to make a wise investment. Choose a home
inspection company that understands your needs and
will work with you to help you meet your goals.
Be Sure To Obtain A Written Home Inspection Report -
Be sure that your home inspection report will be a
detailed written report, that is given to you at the
conclusion of the home inspection. A checklist may
be void of details and may not provide all of the
information and advice you need.
5. Don't Be Confused By Home Inspector
"Certifications" -
Don't be confused by home inspector "certifications"
offered by, or sold by trade societies or companies,
or obtained via home inspection home study courses,
certifications are available to anybody, a high
school diploma is not a requirement.
During The Home Inspection
Be Sure To Attend The Home Inspection -
Be sure to attend the home inspection; the
inspection should take about two hours. One picture
is worth a thousand words, and there's a unique
opportunity to learn about the home and its systems.
Be Sure That The Home Inspector Is Well Equipped -
The home inspector should be fully equipped with
necessary tools including electrical testers, a fuel
gas and carbon monoxide detector, moisture meter,
ladder, inspection mirror, flashlight, level, and
other home inspection tools, etc.
Be Sure To Follow The Home Inspector And Ask
Questions -
No questions are foolish, learn as much as you can
from the home inspector during the home inspection.
Be Sure That All Of The Following Points Are Fully
Covered -
Location, Location, Location, you've heard that
often enough when looking for a home. Once you find
your home, there's nothing more important than
Structural, Structural, Structural, you need to know
that the home you are purchasing is structurally
sound.
The physical, plumbing, heating, air-conditioning,
and electrical systems should be thoroughly
inspected and evaluated. The home inspector should
look for aluminum electrical distribution wires,
electrical systems that are not adequate for modern
usage, lead and galvanized steel water supply pipes,
aged and inefficient heating and air-conditioning
systems, etc.
If the home has a well and/or septic system, these
systems should be evaluated as well by the home
inspector.
The home inspector should look for materials that may
be asbestos containing materials.
Be Sure To Consider Optional Tests -
Where applicable, testing underground storage tanks,
testing paint for lead, testing drinking water for
lead, testing well supplied drinking water for
bacteria, testing for radon gas in air, testing for
urea formaldehyde foam insulation, etc.
Be Sure To Obtain A Full Verbal Report From The Home
Inspector At The Time Of The Home Inspection -
The home inspection report should be available the
next working day after the home inspection but a
full verbal report should be obtained at the
conclusion of the home inspection.
After The Home Inspection
You Should Know
The condition of the home you are purchasing,
including all positive and negative aspects
What repairs are need and the urgency of the needed
repairs
The magnitude of the repair costs
A proper course of corrective repairs and whether
alternatives are available
If there are any unsafe conditions, and whether
there are any risks of hidden deterioration
You Should Expect
An easy to understand detailed written home
inspection report.
The home inspector to provide the answers to any
questions you may have regarding the report
You Should Not Expect
The home inspector to offer to repair, for a fee,
any uncovered defects (that would be a conflict of
interest and may erode confidence you may have in
the home inspector's findings).
Why A Home Inspection Prior To Purchase?
Is It Really Necessary?
There's a lot more to know about the home you are
about to purchase than location, location, and
location.
A home consists of many complex components including
structural framing, physical components, electrical,
plumbing, heating, and air-conditioning systems.
Wow! I thought finding the home of my dreams was a
job, how can I determine what's under the cosmetics.
Sure, the bathrooms and kitchen are good looking,
the wallpaper is not my taste but I can take it down
along with the paneling in the playroom, but what's
happening beneath the surface, is everything cool?
Exactly the reason why you need a competent home
inspector to assist you with the evaluation of the
home's major systems.
Finding A Good Home Inspector Is Like Finding A Good
Doctor.
You Need To Carefully Check The Inspector's
Credentials.
What Else I Should Know Before The Home Inspection?
I Want To Be As Informed As Possible -
A lot of information will be provided to you at the
time of inspection, it's difficult to absorb it all.
Terminology like heat exchanger, over fused circuit,
plumbing vent stack, steel flitch plate, etc. may
not sound like oven, sink, and entrance stairway,
but these are terms that are part of a home. That is
why you should be sure that your home inspection
report will be a detailed written report, not a hand
written checklist that is given to you at the
conclusion of the home inspection. A checklist may
be void of detail and may not provide all of the
information and advice you need.
Be sure to attend the home inspection. One picture
is worth a thousand words, and there's a unique
opportunity to learn about the home and its
systems.
Be sure that the home inspector is well equipped.
The home inspector should be fully equipped with
necessary tools including electrical testers, a fuel
gas and carbon monoxide detector, moisture meter,
ladder, inspection mirror, flashlight, level, and
other home inspection tools, etc.
Be sure to follow the home inspector and ask
questions. No questions are foolish, learn as much
as you can from the home inspector during the home
inspection.
In addition, the physical, plumbing, heating,
air-conditioning, and electrical systems should be
thoroughly inspected and evaluated. The home
inspector should determine the condition of the roof
surface, the exterior facades, doors and windows.
The land grading around the home should be examined,
as well as the condition of decks, patios, porches,
driveways and sidewalks.
The physical condition of the interior of the home
should be evaluated searching for tell tale signs of
problems. The inspector should determine if there
are indications of past water intrusion into the
attic or lower levels of the home and whether the
home is susceptible to water intrusion in the attic
and lower levels. The home inspector should look for
materials that may be asbestos containing materials.
The home inspection should include an inspection for
wood destroying insects that will be accepted by
your mortgage lender.
The home inspector should inspect all electrical and
mechanical components of the home and look for
aluminum electrical distribution wires, electrical
systems that are not adequate for modern usage, lead
and galvanized steel water supply pipes, aged and
inefficient heating and air-conditioning systems,
etc. If the home has a well and/or septic system,
these systems should be evaluated as well by the
home inspector.
Where applicable, optional testing of underground
storage tanks, testing paint for lead, testing
drinking water for lead, testing well supplied
drinking water for bacteria, testing for radon gas
in air, testing for urea formaldehyde foam
insulation, etc.
What I Should Expect During The On-Site Home
Inspection?
I've Heard A lot Of Different Opinions - What An
Inspection, I'm Tired! I Took Some Notes, What
Happens Next?
The inspection should take about two hours. Be sure
to have the home inspector summarize the findings
and obtain a full verbal report at the conclusion of
the inspection. The home inspection report should
be available the next working day after the home
inspection.
At the conclusion of the inspection you should know
the condition of the home you are purchasing,
including all positive and negative aspects. You
should know what repairs are needed, as well as the
urgency of the needed repairs, and the magnitude of
the repair costs. You should know a proper course of
corrective repairs and whether alternatives are
available. You should know if there are any unsafe
conditions, and whether there are any risks of
hidden deterioration.
You should expect an easy to understand detailed
written home inspection report.
You should expect the home inspector to provide the
answers to any questions you may have regarding the
report.
You should not expect the home inspector to offer to
repair, for a fee, any uncovered defects (that would
be a conflict of interest and may erode confidence
you may have in the home inspector's findings).
There's hardly a perfect home, a good home inspector
will always find some defects but you need to weigh
the positives against the negatives. Remember, every
deal is different, every deal is negotiable, there
are many factors to consider, and a lot depends upon
whether the real estate market is currently a buyers
or sellers market and whether or not there are any
backup offers on the house. Some defects, such as
structural problems and a termite infestation, have
historically been the seller's responsibility in
real property transactions; mitigation of elevated
levels of radon gas is typically a seller's
responsibility. The bottom line is that it can't
hurt to negotiate for a better price on the home
based upon the defects uncovered by the inspector.
I've Got My Report, There Are Some Problems I Was
Not Aware Of - I Want To Proceed With The Purchase,
What Should I Do Next?
Review The Home Inspection Report
The Key To Your Protection - Home Inspections
Receptacles, Polarity, Grounding and Ground-Fault
Circuit Interrupters -
Electrical receptacles are required in rooms in
dwelling units and should be no further than 12 feet
from one another so that an electrical device can be
connected into an outlet that is no further away
than 6 feet (lamp cords are typically 6 feet in
length). The "Six Foot Rule" is designed to minimize
the need for electrical extension cords, which are
prone to electrical fires due to the low ampacity
(current carrying capability) of these cords;
extension cords can also be tripping hazards when
they are installed across a room. Insufficient
electrical receptacles can also result in hazardous
conditions when too many electrical devices are
connected to a receptacle with the use of electrical
outlet extenders.
Electrical receptacles are typically installed on a
15 or 20 amp circuit and should be the grounding
type; that is, the receptacle has a means of being
connected to the home system ground. A three-prong
receptacle should not be installed if there is no
electrical ground available.
Receptacles installed in wet or damp locations
should be installed in weatherproof enclosures and
electrical receptacles installed near swimming pools
should be protected by a GFCI.
Polarity and Grounding -
Some electrical devices have a plug with a third
prong, or have a plug with one lug that is wider
than the other; this is a sign that the device has
specific grounding and polarity requirements.
Polarity refers to the identification of which
conductor is ungrounded and which conductor is
grounded. Typically the ungrounded conductor is
black and the grounded conductor is white for
neutral and green for the grounding conductor. The
neutral conductor should be bonded to the green
grounded conductor at the main distribution panel.
Grounded conductors should be connected to ensure a
common, continuous, grounded system.
All outlets intended to be used for appliances with
on/off switches, should be wired for polarity and
should be grounded.
Grounding -
When a device is grounded, it indicates that the
device is intentionally connected to earth ground or
some other device that serves in the place of earth
ground (such as a water service entrance pipe).
Electrical systems and electrical conductors are
grounded to limit voltages due to lightning, surges,
or unintentional contact with higher voltage lines.
Grounding an electrical system stabilizes the
voltage during normal operations.
Equipment is grounded so that the grounding
conductor can provide a low impedance path for fault
currents that will operate over current (fuse or
circuit breaker) devices during ground-fault
conditions. If a device or appliance did not have a
grounding conductor, and an energized wire comes
into contact with the appliance case, the case would
become energized and an individual would receive an
electrical shock. A individual typically senses a
shock when the current flowing through the body
approaches 5 milliamperes. A typical home is rated
for 100 to 200 amperes. Think about how a person
would feel if they were subjected to 200 amperes.
Hopefully you can see the importance of grounding.
Unless listed by Underwriters Laboratory or some
other listed agency, refrigerators, freezers,
air-conditioners, clothes washers, dryers,
dishwashers, waste disposals, sump pumps, hand-held
tools and other motor operated appliances may become
energized. Therefore, these devices should be
grounded unless they have a system of double
insulation.
Cable TV and telephone systems should be bonded, or
connected, to the ground rod or grounding system
used for the electrical system. If CATV and/or
telephone circuits are not bonded to the same
grounding system, dangerous voltages can present
themselves during lightning surges. If a lighting
strike occurs as an individual touches the tuner,
the individual may be subjected to high voltages.
Even though the possibility is remote, there is a
chance that such it can occur. Therefore, it is very
important to ensure that the telephone,
cable-television circuits, and electrical circuits
are all bonded at the same location; typically this
location is at or near the meter base.
If a ground rod is not present, the electrical
system may be connected to a water service entrance
pipe since the pipe passes through earth. If the
home water supply plumbing is plastic, the
electrical system should not be grounded to the
plumbing system since plastic does not conduct
electricity. The electrical system should never be
grounded to gas supply pipes.
Ground-Fault Interrupters -
Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters are devices
intended to protect people from electrical shocks.
These devices de-energize a circuit or a portion of
the circuit within a pre-defined time period when
the current flowing to ground exceeds some
pre-defined value that is less than the over current
device for the supply circuit.
How GFCI Units Work -
Basically, the receptacle conductors pass through a
coil that is connected to a trip device. As long as
the current remains the same in both conductors, the
device remains closed. If one of the conductors
comes into contact with a grounded object, either
directly or through an individual's body, some of
the current returns by a different path and an
unbalance occurs. This unbalanced current is sensed
by the coil and the trip device opens. Since the
device does not need a grounding conductor to
operate, it is acceptable to replace 2-wire
receptacles with GFCI devices. Studies have shown
that a person feels a shock at 5 milliamps and
greater. These shocks lead to involuntary reactions
that can cause accidents and falls.
Bathrooms, garages, outdoor receptacles, crawlspaces
and counter tops that are within six feet of a sink
should have GFCI receptacles. Receptacles located
within 20 feet of a pool should also have GFCI
protection.
There are a variety of ways of protecting a circuit
with GFCI receptacles and breakers. Breakers are
typically more expensive than receptacles. However,
an entire circuit can be protected by a Ground-Fault
Interrupter located in the main distribution panel
or sub-panel. In this manner, the breaker monitors
current flow through the branch circuit. As an
alternative, a GFCI receptacle can be installed in a
manner, which also protects all of the devices
downstream from that receptacle. In other words, if
a kitchen counter has 10 receptacles around the
counter, the first receptacle can be a GFCI
receptacle and it will protect the remaining nine
standard receptacles. If a fault occurs on any of
the receptacles, the device will trip and open the
circuit feeding all receptacles. This wiring scheme
can also take place in bathrooms and garages as
well. It's a good idea to check all GFCI units once
a month to exercise the unit and to be sure that the
unit is functioning properly; checking is typically
conducted by operating the test button and then
operating the reset button.
Preventing Bouncy Floors -
The chance that a residential floor design will
result in annoying vibrations can be greatly reduced
by applying some simple rules-of-thumb. No
rule-of-thumb or design can guarantee that all home
owners will be satisfied with their floors, but many
potential problems can be eliminated at the design
stage. Quite surprising, very small changes in span
can make the difference between "success" or
"failure" with respect to how residents may judge
the performance of floors in a new home.
Bounce Control Made Easy -
One rule that may not yield the most cost efficient
solution, but can certainly save you time and worry
is to "increase the depth one size." For example, if
the code requires a 2x8 at 16 inches on-center, then
use a 2x10 of the same grade and species. Another
example would be to use a 14-inch deep floor truss
when a 12-inch deep truss would meet code
requirements. You should remember that spans allowed
by code meet life safety minimums. Floor vibration,
or bounce, is not a safety issue--it is a
performance issue that may be important to a
homeowner.
In general, length of span is the most important
variable in predicting how a floor will perform for
the residents. A shorter span should improve floor
performance over a longer span for the same size,
species, and joist grade. Floor sheathing should be
glued to the joists, I-joists, or floor trusses for
improved floor performance.
Probably the least efficient way to improve floor
performance is to reduce the on-center spacing. This
result may surprise some, but it can be understood
by realizing that residents feel "bounce" as a
result of a foot impacting a joist. Simply
stated--no impact, no vibration. Joists are not
normally close enough for the shock of a foot to be
carried by two joists.
In Conclusion - AA
simple approach to controlling annoying vibration is
to increase the code required depth by one size, but
this solution may not be optimum based on joist
costs. More efficient design solutions to prevent
annoying floor vibrations are given in the Journal
of Light Construction, November 1998.The floor
sheathing should be glued to the joists along with
nails or screws as specified by the building
designer.
Residential floor design to prevent annoying
vibrations is very complicated and the response of
residents to actual floor constructions is
subjective. The major points to remember about
minimizing floor vibration problems are:
Increase the joist depth over the code minimum for
good protection against vibration complaints.
For solid-sawn joist spans more than 15-feet, reduce
joist span over the maximum allowed by code.
Always glue the sheathing to the joists, or trusses.
Screws for holding the sheathing to the joists are
preferred over nails. The sheathing should be glued
to the joists and all nailing of each panel should
be completed before the glue sets.
Reducing the joist spacing is the least effective
way to minimize floor vibration complaints.
Preventing Bouncy Floors -
The chance that a residential floor design will
result in annoying vibrations can be greatly reduced
by applying some simple rules-of-thumb. No
rule-of-thumb or design can guarantee that all home
owners will be satisfied with their floors, but many
potential problems can be eliminated at the design
stage. Quite surprising, very small changes in span
can make the difference between "success" or
"failure" with respect to how residents may judge
the performance of floors in a new home.
Bounce Control Made Easy -
One rule that may not yield the most cost efficient
solution, but can certainly save you time and worry
is to "increase the depth one size." For example, if
the code requires a 2x8 at 16 inches on-center, then
use a 2x10 of the same grade and species. Another
example would be to use a 14-inch deep floor truss
when a 12-inch deep truss would meet code
requirements. You should remember that spans allowed
by code meet life safety minimums. Floor vibration,
or bounce, is not a safety issue--it is a
performance issue that may be important to a
homeowner.
In general, length of span is the most important
variable in predicting how a floor will perform for
the residents. A shorter span should improve floor
performance over a longer span for the same size,
species, and joist grade. Floor sheathing should be
glued to the joists, I-joists, or floor trusses for
improved floor performance.
Probably the least efficient way to improve floor
performance is to reduce the on-center spacing. This
result may surprise some, but it can be understood
by realizing that residents feel "bounce" as a
result of a foot impacting a joist. Simply
stated--no impact, no vibration. Joists are not
normally close enough for the shock of a foot to be
carried by two joists.
In conclusion, a simple approach to controlling
annoying vibration is to increase the code required
depth by one size, but this solution may not be
optimum based on joist costs. More efficient design
solutions to prevent annoying floor vibrations are
given in the Journal of Light Construction, November
1998.The floor sheathing should be glued to the
joists along with nails or screws as specified by
the building designer.
Residential floor design to prevent annoying
vibrations is very complicated and the response of
residents to actual floor constructions is
subjective. The major points to remember about
minimizing floor vibration problems are:
Increase the joist depth over the code minimum for
good protection against vibration complaints.
For solid-sawn joist spans more than 15-feet, reduce
joist span over the maximum allowed by code.
Always glue the sheathing to the joists, or trusses.
Screws for holding the sheathing to the joists are
preferred over nails. The sheathing should be glued
to the joists and all nailing of each panel should
be completed before the glue sets.
Reducing the joist spacing is the least effective
way to minimize floor vibration complaints.
Party, All You Can Eat Invitation Not Required -
If you were a termite, that would be the call you
have been waiting for. The word goes out that it is
not even necessary to B.Y.O.W. (Bring Your Own
Wood), who cares if anyone is home, there's plenty
to eat and the party will continue until the crash.
And the crash will occur if the party continues
unnoticed for an extended period of time. Termites
can cause substantial structural damage if left
unchecked. When your home inspection is conducted,
the home inspector should check thoroughly for
evidence of termites; your mortgage lender will ask
for a clear termite certificate. If termites are
uncovered, a termiticide (anti-termite chemical)
treatment will be required to end the party and
Bonsai can design a repair procedure for the damaged
structure.
There are different types of termites; we'll limit
this article to subterranean termites, that is,
those species that make their home in the ground
near a source of moisture, warmth, and wood.
Subterranean termites send their workers to find
food for the colony, starting in the lower portions
of the home; when food (any cellulose containing
material) is found, the party begins and damage is
inflicted upon the home. Termite tastes vary, they
will feed not only on the wooden framing of the
home, they also enjoy wooden flooring materials, and
sub-flooring. Appetizers can include, paper on
sheetrock walls, newspapers, magazines and just
about anything that contains cellulose.
There are steps that can be taken to reduce the risk
of a termite infestation. Be sure that there is no
wood to earth contact of any portions of the home;
do not allow wooden landscape chips in flowerbeds to
contact the siding of the home. Keep leaders and
gutters clean and free flowing to reduce the
moisture content in and about the home? Some homes
carry a much higher risk of termite infestation, for
example, slab on grade homes with radiant floor
heating are a natural breeding ground for termites;
if you own a home with radiant floor heating,
periodic inspections by a competent exterminator is
a prudent maintenance procedure.
Party, All You Can Eat -
Termites are like people who eat Oreo cookies from
the inside out; they eat a wooden beam inside
leaving only a thin shell on the outside and this
makes it difficult to find termites. Signs of
termites include damaged wood, termite shelter tubes
(sand colored tubes about the thickness of a
pencil), termite wings, a termite swarm, and of
course, loud termite music and noisy termite party
goers.
We recall a residential home located in an area
zoned for commercial use. There was an elderly
person living in the home who never went into the
basement. When the home was inspected by Bonsai , we
found extensive termite damage to the first floor
flooring structure. The buyer was an accountant who
intended to convert the home from residential use to
office use and intended to bring his heavy file
cabinets into the house. Based upon the severe
damage and the weight of the files, we advised the
buyer not to bring the files into the home until
such time as the flooring structure was completely
replaced. Fortunately, a major rehabilitation of the
flooring system was undertaken based upon our
advice.
Sit Back And Let Us Help You -
Finding a good home for your family is no easy job.
It sure helps to be able to rely upon the expertise
of qualified professionals. Here's where you can
find qualified home inspectors to conduct your
pre-purchase home inspection. Choose the State where
you need a home inspection and we'll help direct you
to home inspectors and home inspection companies who
can help you in your home buying process.
If the States do not appear on the left, your
browser is less than version 3.0 and you will need
to click here for a list of States or click here to
download the latest version of Netscape.
The above list is for the convenience of the general
public; please verify the qualifications of home
inspectors and home inspection companies on this
list prior to retaining their services.
If you are a qualified home inspector and would like
to be included on this list, please click here.
The above list is for the convenience of the general
public; please verify the qualifications of home
inspectors and home inspection companies on this
list prior to retaining their services. Terms of
use.
Retaining the services of home inspector can
translate into big savings at the closing table.
First, you need to be sure that you retain the
services of a qualified inspector, who can identify
subtle defects that are not readily visible to the
typical home buyer. Buyers who inspect their
prospective homes by themselves are rarely qualified
to conduct a thorough home inspection and even if
they have a good knowledge base to work from, they
are too emotionally involved in the purchase and are
usually blinded by the glitter of the cosmetic
issues.
Buying the home of your dreams usually consumes all
of your available resources as well as everything
you can borrow. You sure don't want to wake up to an
unexpected $3,000 repair bill for a new heating
system three months after you move in.
Identifying subtle defects before you sign a
contract can translate into a reduced selling price,
or repair of uncovered defects at the sellers cost.
And don't believe that the seller is offering the
house ``as is", there's always room for negotiation.
Of course, there is a limit to what any inspector
can uncover because home inspections are visual
investigations and destructive probing is not the
standard of practice in the industry. However, there
may be times when destructive probing may be
recommended by the inspector and this must be
undertaken with the seller's approval. The purpose
of a pre-purchase home inspection is to reduce risk
to the buyer, the visual inspection can not
eliminate risk.
It is important to accompany the inspector during
the home inspection because one picture is worth a
thousand words and there's a unique opportunity to
learn about the home; the inspector will be sure
that you are not blinded by the glitter. Familiarize
yourself with the following top ten list and you
will have an idea of what your home inspector should
be looking for.
Wear on a roof may be readily apparent if the wear
is very advanced but a roof that is starting to age
is a more subtle defect that the Inspector can
uncover. Resurfacing a roof costs thousands of
dollars, and will cost much more if the existing
roofing surface needs to be removed prior to
re-roofing. If a roof will need to be resurfaced in
the foreseeable future, this may be a negotiable
item. Similarly, the siding of the house should be
carefully inspected because residing a house can
also cost thousand of dollars. Replacement of old
defective windows can cost thousands of dollars,
don't overlook this obvious defect. Eliminating
problems before they start is smart, for example,
the home inspector should be sure that the land
around the home is properly graded to divert water
away from the home, this will help to reduce the
possibility of water intrusion into the home.
If there's one defect you don't want to find out
about after you move in, it's a basement that
floods. The basement areas of the home should be
thoroughly checked for signs of water intrusion,
such as water stains, mildew, an odor of dampness,
efflorescence on the walls and floors, and damaged
and cupping floors. In addition, look for water
proofing systems, sump pumps, etc. in the basement;
these systems can help to reduce the risk of water
flooding in the basement but may not be able to
eliminate water intrusion under all conditions. If a
house needs water proofing measures, the cost can
run into the thousands.
Proper insulation and ventilation in a home should
not be overlooked; proper ventilation in a home is
more important than most home buyers are aware of.
Inadequate ventilation in an attic can result in
accelerated deterioration of the structural roof
deck; if this occurs, a major expense will be
incurred to remove and replace the roofing shingles
and roof deck, and in extreme cases, the roof
rafters. This is one defect that should not be
overlooked.
The condition of the paint surface on homes
constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead paint
which can be a problem if there is wide spread
deterioration of the paint surface; your home
inspector may suggest an X-ray evaluation of the
paint surface for lead content. If you are planning
renovation of walls, etc. after you move in, lead
paint is an issue to consider.
Bulges, deflections, and other irregularities in the
roof framing, exterior wall framing, and interior
framing, or cracks in the foundation wall may
indicate a serious structural problem that may be
the result of poor structural design, poor
construction techniques, improper structural
alteration, water damage, or termite damage. Jacking
up a house to replace damaged structural components,
or underpinning a defective foundation wall is a
major expense.
First, the inspector should determine the size of
the service to determine if it meets current
standards; bringing an upgraded electrical service
into a home can cost one thousand dollars. The
electrical system should then be checked by removing
the cover from the electric service panel. Once the
wiring is exposed, be sure that the home
inspector looks for problems in the panel such as
burned wiring, overfused circuits (the fuse or
circuit breaker is too large for the wire size),
improper wiring connections, openings in the panel
(where a child can put their finger into the panel,
ouch!), home owner installed wiring, etc. In
addition to checking for an adequate quantity of
electrical switches and convenience outlets in the
house, the outlets should be checked for open ground
and wiring reversal conditions. Throughout the
house, dead ended wiring and exposed wiring should
be on the list of defects to look for. Homes wired
in the mid 60's to mid 70's may have aluminum wiring
and if so, the inspector should determine if an
approved retrofit has been installed at the wiring
connections; if not, a potential fire safety hazard
exists. If the home is very old, it may have knob
and tube wiring, this is ancient wiring and may be
hazardous. Extensive wiring replacement can cost
thousands of dollars.
First, the home inspector should determine the type
of pipe that supplies water to the house from the
municipal main in the street. Be wary of old lead
and galvanized steel water supply pipes, replacement
costs thousands of dollars. Be sure that your home
inspector checks the piping distribution in the
house for type of material and condition looking for
deterioration, incompatible piping materials, and
leaks. Your inspector should carry a moisture meter
to evaluate any suspect plaster or wall board on the
ceilings and walls caused by water leaks; replacing
the piping network in the walls and ceilings is a
major expense that can cost thousands of dollars. Be
sure that the inspector checks all of the fixtures
and faucets for proper operation, and also checks
tiled bathtub and shower enclosures for integrity.
Replacement of tiling in a bathroom, or replacement
of a shower pan can cost a couple of thousand
dollars.
Look out for that old clunker that used to fire
coal, it will consume fuel faster than you can feed
it; plan on replacing it with a modern efficient
heating system. Other problems include defective
furnace heat exchangers, this type of problem is not
always easy to uncover and usually means that the
furnace will require replacement and this can cost
three to four thousand dollars. Boilers that are
starting to leak will also require replacement and a
typical cost is three to five thousand dollars; your
inspector should look for these major defects. In
addition, your inspector should be sure that the
heat distribution is satisfactory and that the heat
distribution piping or ductwork is in good
condition. Safety concerns such as defective
controls, inoperative emergency switches, and
evidence of past malfunctions and carbon monoxide
emissions must be carefully investigated by the
inspector. Be careful of special problems associated
with radiant floor heating and other less common
systems.
The inspector should advise you to have underground
oil storage tanks tested for integrity; a leaking
underground oil storage tank can cause thousands of
dollars of environmental damage. Another
environmental concern is the existence of insulation
that may contain asbestos and is especially
hazardous if the material is friable. The inspector
should advise you to have any suspect material
laboratory tested.
The home inspector should test the central
air-conditioning system to be sure that it is
cooling properly; replacement of an air-conditioning
compressor can cost two to five thousand dollars.
Be very careful of homes where deferred maintenance
is clearly evident; if a home has been poorly
maintained and there are obvious problems, proceed
with extreme caution, this could be your worst
nightmare where you wake up in the middle of the
night screaming (the home of your dreams has become
the home of your screams). If there are obvious
problems, imagine what you can't see; it's your
money pit, keep your check book handy. A handyman's
special is best acquired by a handy man.
Be careful of homes where there is obvious plumbing
and electrical work, as well as structural additions
and renovations, that were not professionally
installed and were most likely installed by the home
owner; correcting these defects can cost thousands
of dollars. This is a situation where the seller of
the home is a weekend warrior who is well
intentioned but has no clue regarding proper
construction and trade practices; don't end up
writing checks for work that the seller did not want
to pay for.
It is preferable to retain the services of a home
inspector who issues a full written report detailing
what is wrong, why it's wrong, and what needs to be
done to correct the uncovered defects. Home
inspection reports that consist of check lists
handed to you at the end of an inspection are often
void of needed detail; checking off good, fair poor,
adequate, inadequate, etc.
Pre-Sale Home Inspection
A home inspection before a home is placed on the
market is a good way to obtain a condition report.
Find out what the inspector will say about the
quality of your home before the buyer's inspector
says it. Now you have the opportunity to make needed
repairs to be sure that the sale goes smoothly
without any surprises. We can advise you how to
invest your money for the best return on your
investment; a pre-sale inspection is a good way to
maximize your profit upon sale.
Your Buyer's Home Inspection - Prepare Your Home For
Sale
Prepare Your Home For Inspection
Chimney - Provides a method of removing the products
of combustion from a heating system, water heater,
fireplace, wood burning stove, etc.
Flue Liner - The flue lines the chimney opening with
a masonry or metal material.
Chimney Cap - The cap (or crown) is the top of the
chimney and protects the top of the chimney from
weather.
Chimney Flashing - Aluminum or copper sheet-metal is
installed to provide a watertight joint between the
chimney and the roof.
Firebrick - The hearth of a fireplace is lined with
firebrick which can withstand the heat of a fire.
Ash Dump - A door in the hearth of a fireplace where
ashes can be swept to a pit beneath.
Cleanout Door - The door to the ash pit where the
ashes can be cleaned out.
Fireplace Chimney - The front of the fireplace
chimney.
Outer Hearth - The portion of the fireplace hearth
that extends beyond the front of the fireplace.
Roof Ridge - The peak of the roof.
Ridge Board - Board that is installed between
opposing roof rafters at the ridge of the roof.
Roof Rafters - Structural members that support the
roof.
Collar Tie - Structural members that tie together
two opposing roof rafters; collar ties help to
prevent roof spreading.
Roof Insulation - Insulation placed on the attic
floor to reduce heat losses.
Roof Sheathing - The roof deck is installed over the
roof rafters and provides the surface for the
application of the roofing shingles. The roof deck
(sheathing) can be plywood, plank, or hardboard.
Roofing Surface - Asphalt shingles, cedar shingles,
slate tiles, clay tiles, or any other roofing
material that protects a house from the weather.
Cornice - A decorative member that is installed at
the upper portion of an exterior wall.
Gutter - A trough that collects and diverts water
that runs off the roof.
Downspout - The downspout leader is a vertical
component that is connected to the gutter to provide
a method of diverting water that runs off the roof.
Storm Drain Pipe - The underground drain pipe that
collects water from the downspout leader.
Gable - The triangular end wall of a house that has
sloping roofs.
Fascia Board - The trim board located under the edge
of the roof.
Louvers - An open vent cover.
Corner Post - The vertical member located at the
corner of the house frame.
Stud - Vertical wooden members that frame a wall.
Sill - The first structural component of the framing
that rests on the foundation wall.
Plate - The structural beam located at the top end
of wall studs.
Corner Bracing - Diagonal members installed at
corners for strength.
Sheathing - The outer skin of the framing to which
siding is installed.
Joist - Structural components that support a floor
or ceiling.
Bridging - Short members installed between adjacent
joists to prevent twisting.
Sub flooring - The plywood, planks, or hardboard
that is installed over floor joists to accept
finished flooring.
Flooring Paper - Felt paper that is installed over
the subflooring prior to the installation of
finished flooring.
Finish Flooring - Hardwood, carpet, tile, or
resilient flooring.
Building Paper - A building wrap installed prior to
the installation of siding or roofing.
Clapboard Siding - A type of siding; other siding
can be wooden shingles, aluminum siding, vinyl
siding, etc.
Wall Insulation - Insulation installed in exterior
walls to reduce heat losses.
Metal Lathe - A sheet metal mesh to which plaster is
applied.
Finished Grade Line - The level of the ground at the
foundation.
Foundation Wall - A wall of poured concrete (or
concrete block, etc.) that rests on the footings;
the foundation wall supports the house.
Termite Shield - A metal shield that helps to
prevent termites from destroying the wooden frame of
the house.
Footing - The concrete support for the foundation
walls.
Footing Drain Tile - A perforated drainage pipe
installed at the base of the footing that functions
to drain water away the house and reduce the
possibility of basement water intrusion.
Basement Floor Slab - The reinforced poured concrete
slab that forms the basement floor.
Gravel Fill - The gravel bed installed beneath the
basement floor slab which helps to reduce the
possibility of basement water seepage.
Girder - A main structural beam that supports floor
joists.
Backfill - Earth installed in the area excavated for
the construction of the foundation walls.
Areaway - An open space to permit the entry of light
and air to a window.
Area Wall - A wall that forms the open area.
Window - An opening in a building to permit the
entry of light and air.
Window Frame - The lining of a window opening.
Window Sash - The inner frame that contains the
window glazing.
Lintel - The structural beam that supports a window
or door opening.
Window Casing - The decorative portions surrounding
the interior side of a window opening.
Entrance Canopy - A roof extension located above an
entrance door;.
Furring - Thin strips of wood used to level a
surface.
Stair Tread - The horizontal step of a stairway.
Stair Riser - The vertical portion of a stairway
located between two adjacent treads.
Stair Stringer - The diagonal side members of a
stairway to which the treads and risers are
attached.
Newel - A post that terminates a railing.
Stair Rail - A hand railing in a stairwell.
Balusters - The vertical spindles a guard railing.
Post - A post is a wooden structural component that
is typically utilized to support a girder or other
beam.
What must never be overlooked in a home inspection
Before The Home Inspection
Choose A Home Inspection Company With Top
Credentials
You have a goal, you want to be well informed, and
you want to make a wise investment. Choose a home
inspection company that understands your needs and
will work with you to help you meet your goals.
Be Sure To Obtain A Written Home Inspection Report
Be sure that your home inspection report will be a
detailed written report, not a hand written
checklist that is given to you at the conclusion of
the home inspection. A checklist may be void of
details and may not provide all of the information
and advice you need.
Don't Be Confused By Home Inspector "Certifications"
Don't be confused by home inspector "certifications"
offered by, or sold by trade societies or companies,
or obtained via home inspection home study courses,
certifications are available to anybody, a high
school diploma is not a requirement.
During The Home Inspection
Be Sure To Attend The Home Inspection
Be sure to attend the home inspection; the
inspection should take about two hours. One picture
is worth a thousand words, and there's a unique
opportunity to learn about the home and its systems.
Be Sure That The Home Inspector Is Well Equipped
The home inspector should be fully equipped with
necessary tools including electrical testers, a fuel
gas and carbon monoxide detector, moisture meter,
ladder, inspection mirror, flashlight, level, and
other home inspection tools, etc.
Be Sure To Follow The Home Inspector And Ask
Questions
No questions are foolish, learn as much as you can
from the home inspector during the home inspection.
Be Sure That All Of The Following Points Are Fully
Covered
Location, Location, Location, you've heard that
often enough when looking for a home. Once you find
your home, there's nothing more important than
Structural, Structural, Structural, you need to know
that the home you are purchasing is structurally
sound.
The physical, plumbing, heating, air-conditioning,
and electrical systems should be thoroughly
inspected and evaluated. The home inspector should
look for aluminum electrical distribution wires,
electrical systems that are not adequate for modern
usage, lead and galvanized steel water supply pipes,
aged and inefficient heating and air-conditioning
systems, etc.
The home inspection should include an inspection for
wood destroying insects that will be accepted by
your mortgage lender.
If the home has a well and/or septic system, these
systems should be evaluated as well by the home
inspector.
The home inspector should look for materials that
may be asbestos containing materials.
Be Sure To Consider Optional Tests
Where applicable, testing underground storage tanks,
testing paint for lead, testing drinking water for
lead, testing well supplied drinking water for
bacteria, testing for radon gas in air, testing for
urea formaldehyde foam insulation, etc.
Be Sure To Obtain A Full Verbal Report From The Home
Inspector At The Time Of The Home Inspection
The home inspection report should be available the
next working day after the home inspection but a
full verbal report should be obtained at the
conclusion of the home inspection.
After The Home Inspection
You Should Know
You should know the condition of the home you are
purchasing, including all positive and negative
aspects.
You should know what repairs are need, as well as
the urgency of the needed repairs, and the magnitude
of the repair costs.
You should know a proper course of corrective
repairs and whether alternatives are available.
You should know if there are any unsafe conditions,
and whether there are any risks of hidden
deterioration.
You Should Expect
You should expect an easy to understand detailed
written home inspection report.
You should expect the home inspector to provide the
answers to any questions you may have regarding the
report.
You should expect the inspector door to be open for
answers to future questions.
You Should Not Expect
You should not expect the home inspector to offer to
repair, for a fee, any uncovered defects (that would
be a conflict of interest and may erode confidence
you may have in the home inspector's findings).
